A true light chemical peel is classified as reaching depths of .004mm (the stratum corneum) to .06mm, but still within the uppermost layer of the skin, the epidermis. A superficial chemical peel may be a single acid or combination of different superficial peel acids. Besides the concentration of the light chemical peel acid, other factors will influence the strength of a superficial chemical peel such as the solvent used, the application method and the method of preparing the skin. Some examples of a light chemical peel are:³

• α-hydroxy acids: glycolic acid (derived from cane sugar) 20-70%, lactic acid (derived from milk), malic acid (derived from apples), citric acid (derived from fruits), tartaric acid (derived from grapes)
• Trichloracetic acid (TCA) in strengths of 10-35%
• β-hydroxy acids: Salicylic acid (SA) in strengths of 10-30%
• Jessner’s Peel—original solution contains resorcinol, but a modified Jessner’s solution is now more common (17% lactic acid, 17% salicylic, 8% citric acid, ethanol)⁴

As the largest category of chemical exfoliating peels, light chemical peels offer a myriad of options as well as differing outcomes. In general, the effects of a superficial chemical peel last from 1-2 months. Both the quality and duration of a light chemical peel may be augmented with adherence to a pre and post superficial peel protocol that should be outlined by the practicing skincare professional.

Some light peeling after a light chemical peel is common, although the level of peeling will be different depending upon the superficial peel solution used, the patient’s skin type and the health of the skin. The peeling, if it occurs, will generally start 2-3 days after a superficial chemical peel and the total healing time is generally 1-7 days.⁵ It’s important to not pull or pick at the skin after a light chemical peel as doing so may damage the skin and prolong healing. It’s important to note that not all light chemical peels will produce peeling, and, in fact, visible peeling is not always necessary for an improvement in the skin to occur.

There is generally a level of tingling or a light burning sensation with a superficial chemical peel, although for most patients the discomfort of a light peel facial is tolerable and does not require any additional pain management beyond the use of a cooling fan and/or cool compress. The sensations during a light chemical peel will differ depending upon the superficial peel used, the application method and the state of the skin. For example, glycolic and lactic acid peels generally feel itchy or stingy whereas a TCA or Jessner’s peel may feel increasingly hot as more layers are performed. Discomfort is entirely subjective, however, and a patient concerned about the potential pain during a light chemical peel should consult with their trusted skincare professional for recommendations to manage it effectively.

With a broad range of available single acids and superficial peel combinations, a light chemical peel may be appropriate and safe for nearly anyone. Certain superficial chemical peels, if cleared by their doctor, may also be used on pregnant patients. Because a light chemical peel is limited to the epidermis, or uppermost layer of the skin, complications are rare when the light chemical peel is performed by an experienced skincare professional on a patient that has adhered to the proper superficial peel pre and post care.

Performing peels on the light superficial side of a light chemical peel is generally safe and there are increasingly more options on the market representing a wide array of performing acids. However, even when using the lightest of a light chemical peel it is best to consult with a skincare professional who can accurately assess the skin, train a patient to recognize when the skin may benefit from a light chemical peel and instruct the patient on how to properly perform a superficial chemical peel at home.

Whether or not a patient may apply makeup directly after a superficial chemical peel will depend upon the light chemical peel used and the condition of the skin after the light peel facial. In fact, there are light chemical peels designed specifically to be applied before an event wherein makeup use is expected. However, if it is possible to avoid wearing makeup after a light chemical peel it may be preferable to allow the skin to thoroughly absorb any treatment serums or other nutrients applied to the skin after the superficial chemical peel. Also, depending upon a patient’s rate of exfoliation, makeup may cause the skin to flake and appear cakey. If being able to wear makeup soon after a light peel facial is important to the patient, it should be disclosed to the skincare professional when discussing options of light chemical peels.

A superficial chemical peel may come in many different strengths and represent a broad range of activity in the skin. For a true superficial chemical peel reaching a depth of up to .06mm in the epidermis, every 4-6 weeks may be sufficient for a repeated light peel facial. The use of a chemical exfoliant during a skincare service is quite popular and it may be referred to as a light chemical peel, whether or not it reaches the minimum depth requirement of .004mm in the stratum corneum for a true superficial chemical peel. This type of very light chemical peel may be safely performed on a weekly basis. The availability of a broad range of superficial peels makes it ever more important to consult with an experienced skincare professional when deciding which light chemical peel to choose and how often to repeat the procedure.

Although both skin cells and hair contain keratin, a chemical peel such as a light chemical peel or a superficial chemical peel works by dissolving the bonds between the skin cells and does not affect hair, which has a very different chemical composition. However, a frequent combination skin service includes dermaplaning to safely remove vellus hair followed by a light chemical peel. Interestingly, depilatory creams that are applied to the skin and gently dissolve the hair shaft require a very alkaline state, as opposed to a superficial chemical peel which is acidic. The physician or peel provider should advise on the timing and use of a depilatory cream in the week(s) before or after a chemical peel.

It’s important that the skin is healthy and not overly compromised before any level of superficial chemical peel. Limiting sun exposure for two weeks before a light chemical peel and discontinuing the use of any retinoids or exfoliating acids 2-5 days prior to a superficial chemical peel will aid the skin in recovery and limit the occurrence of abnormal reaction to the light chemical peel.