In addition to providing excellent antioxidant support, vitamin C is also an integral part of the skin’s renewal process. However, some of the more active, and effective, forms of vitamin C, such as ascorbic acid, function in an acidic state at a pH around 3.5, and as such, can be quite irritating to freshly exfoliated skin after a microdermabrasion treatment. It is generally recommended to avoid the use of vitamin C after microdermabrasion for the first 48 hours, but then regular vitamin C use should be resumed to support the recovery of the skin. As always, it’s best to consult with the trusted skincare professional providing the microdermabrasion service for customized recommendations on reintroducing vitamin C products after an microdermabrasion treatment.

Microdermabrasion is limited to the uppermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum. A microdermabrasion treatment may be adjusted to remove more or fewer layers by either increasing the number of passes over the skin, or for crystal microdermabrasion, increasing the intensity of the stream of exfoliating crystals. Depending on a patient’s age, health and skincare practices, the stratum corneum may consist of 10-30 layers of dead skin cells.² The thickness of the skin will also vary depending upon the area. For example, skin on the upper lip is quite robust, while the skin around the eyes is the thinnest on the face.

Microdermabrasion functions by either propelling a stream of crystals onto the skin or by scraping the skin with a diamond encrusted handpiece. Both techniques will loosen dead skin and remove the top layer of a blackhead. The suction action during the microdermabrasion treatment will then remove the blackhead, or loosen the material within the blackhead sufficiently for easy removal via manual extraction. Repeated and regular microdermabrasion will prevent the build-up of new blackheads, resulting in clearer skin.

Microdermabrasion is not a painful procedure. At most, a patient may experience a very mild discomfort, but the sensation of a microdermabrasion treatment is often described as being similar to the rough lick of a cat’s tongue. If microdermabrasion is performed on skin that is already thinned from previous exfoliation or otherwise impaired, the procedure will be more painful, and, in most cases, should be halted.³ It’s important for patients to be candid with their providers during any esthetic procedure and communicate any discomfort or pain that may occur.

Both a chemical peel and microdermabrasion are excellent choices for exfoliating the skin. Some conditions, such as pregnancy, make microdermabrasion the preferred method. A microdermabrasion facial will benefit conditions such as acne scars, sun damage, fine lines and enlarged pores with little or no downtime. But, more complex imperfections such as moderate to deep wrinkles and deeper scars, will benefit from the range of intensities and depths possible with chemical peels. Some providers may even alternate the two procedures as part of a comprehensive treatment plan, harnessing the benefits of both modalities.

Microdermabrasion is an appropriate exfoliation method for a broad range of skin types. It is a safe modality during pregnancy, when many other exfoliation methods are contraindicated . However, the abrasive nature of a microdermabrasion facial make it an inappropriate treatment for very sensitive skin types or patients prone to excessive reddening of the skin or vascular disorders such as rosacea. Although rare, some dark skin types may experience a darkening of the skin after microdermabrasion due to an inflammatory response that activates pigment production within the skin. Lastly, microdermabrasion should not be performed on skin with active lesions of any kind to avoid spreading the infection.

Microdermabrasion may indeed be performed by a dermatologist, but microdermabrasion may also be performed by a licensed esthetician. A microdermabrasion facial may be performed alone or before other active treatments to increase the absorption and efficacy of topical products. Although microdermabrasion can be performed to remove a significant portion of the skin, the technology is often used in esthetics as a mild form of exfoliation with very little risk of complications. Medical Microdermabrasion, on the other hand, is much more intense with greater removal of tissue and may only be performed by a physician, or by a registered nurse or physician assistant under a physician’s supervision.⁵

If the microdermabrasion treatment was mild to moderate, returning to the use of a retinol product after 2-3 days will rarely cause complications. If, however, the microdermabrasion facial was more aggressive, it’s a better option to “eat” vitamin A in foods such as fish, carrots, broccoli and squash for the first 48 hours, then add in the use of a vitamin A ester, such as retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate or retinyl linoleate. Vitamin A esters do not have the same exfoliating effect as retinol. A few days of “feeding” the skin with vitamin A esters should prep the skin well for the return to a retinol product. However, some skin is accustomed or well-adjusted to retinol use and may find returning to a retinol product 48 hours after microdermabrasion unproblematic. It’s always wise to consult with a skincare professional about the best ways to care for the skin after microdermabrasion.⁶

As with other mild to moderate exfoliation procedures, professional microdermabrasion may be performed every 2 to 8 weeks depending upon the renewal rate of the skin, although some treatment protocols may call for weekly microdermabrasion treatments over a period of 4-6 weeks to achieve the desired results.⁷ The handheld microdermabrasion devices now available on the market are not as aggressive as professional machines, but should be used only on healthy skin no more than once a week. The frequency of microdermabrasion will also vary based upon an individual’s skincare regimen. For example, patient’s using effective retinoids will need more time between microdermabrasion treatment, or may not need microdermabrasion at all.

A microdermabrasion treatment performed on skin that has been thinned may cause more harm than benefit. For at least one week before microdermabrasion, patient’s should avoid the use of retinoids, exfoliators and other procedures that thin the skin such as shaving or waxing. Excessive sun exposure should be avoided for several weeks before microdermabrasion. If possible, it is advisable to refrain from smoking for a week before microdermabrasion to ensure good blood flow to the surface of the skin. As with any esthetic treatment, it’s imporatnt to consult with a trusted skincare professional for specific pre- and post-care instructions.⁸