The primary downside of dermaplaning is its limited effectiveness. Since a dermaplaning facial can only affect the uppermost layers of the skin, it is limited in what it can accomplish compared to other more intensive forms of exfoliation, such as chemical peels. Dermaplaning should never be performed on skin with active lesions, such as acne pustules or cold sores as this may worsen or spread the condition.

Dermaplaning or otherwise shaving the hair will not affect the color, thickness or growth rate of the hair. Cutting the hair at the surface, as happens when dermaplaning face hair, will create a ‘blunt’ edge that may feel more coarse as it grows back. This accounts for the inaccurate belief that dermaplaning makes hair grow back thicker. The only things that can change the thickness, color or location of hair are events such as hormonal shifts (such as puberty and menopause), certain medications and specific medical conditions.

Dermaplaning affords instant glow and improved texture, as well as increased cell turnover for nearly all skin, even very sensitive skin types. The ability of a dermaplane to remove the upper layers of the skin without irritation or downtime passes dermatologist approval and creates other uses for dermaplaning in the professional setting. For example, some dermatologists may use a dermaplaning facial before a laser or deep chemical peel to allow these treatments to penetrate more deeply in the skin. Dermatologists often use a tool called a dermatone which resembles an electric razor and has an oscillating blade that moves back and forth to evenly "skim" off the surface layers of skin.¹

Dermaplaning is a form of mild exfoliation, and therefore the skin will be more susceptible and sensitive to factors such as UV exposure and certain skincare products. As with any form of exfoliation, sunscreen should be used consistently and potentially irritating products avoided for the first 48 hours or until the skin has recovered adequately. Other forms of exfoliation, including scrubs, should be avoided for up to a week after dermaplaning, while exposure to excessive heat such as steam rooms, saunas or intense exercise should be postponed for the first 24 hours. Because of the possible irritation caused by chlorine, swimming pools should be avoided for 3 days after a dermaplaning facial.²

A professional dermaplaning facial should not be repeated more frequently than once a month to allow the skin to fully recover from the exfoliation achieved by this form of dermaplaning. At-home dermaplaning devices, such as the Dermaflash®, may be used as often as once a week on healthy skin. If other forms of exfoliation are used, such as acids, scrubs or exfoliating brushes, the use of a dermaplane should be reduced to avoid over-exfoliating and impairing the barrier of the skin.³

There is no general guideline for use of retinol when dermaplaning as many factors affect the appropriateness of combining retinoid use with dermaplaning. Dermaplaning may be safe when using retinol, however, certain precautions must be followed. In general, all use of prescription strength retinoids should be stopped a week before a dermaplaning facial. More mild, over-the-counter formulations of retinol should be ceased a few days before, but are excellent treatments to apply to the skin 2-3 days after a dermaplaning facial to augment their effectiveness. Before undergoing a dermaplaning treatment, it’s important to consult with a skincare professional who can review specific retinoid products and make appropriate recommendations for their use before and after dermaplaning.

Dermaplaning is typically performed on thoroughly cleansed, dry skin. When dermaplaning face skin it’s important to see the skin and hair being removed to avoid using too much pressure or otherwise harming the skin. Dermaplaning on dry skin makes it easier to see what is being removed. However, in a professional dermaplaning facial, the technician may use a serum or oil when dermaplaning to reduce inflammation caused by friction.⁴

Dermaplaning as a form of exfoliation helps to speed the cellular turnover of the skin. In this way it may speed up the removal of pigmented cells that have accumulated in response to an inflammation trigger, such as acne. However, if the dark spots are due to melanin expression in the deepest layers of the skin, as is seen in moles and some freckles, dermaplaning will not change their appearance. In such cases, a laser or chemical peels may be more effective.

Performed correctly on skin with a healthy barrier, dermaplaning is not at all painful, although an initial redness that diminishes quickly is common. There is also the possibility of irritation bumps appearing after dermaplaning (as is common in men who shave), but this inflammation reaction may be addressed with the use of skincare products formulated to calm the skin.⁵

Dermaplaning safely removes the uppermost layers of skin cells for an improved texture to the skin, which may cause the skin to appear tighter or more firm. However, dermaplaning does not remodel collagen or increase collagen production beyond what is standard in the skin renewal cycle.

Though the two are often confused, there is very little commonality between dermaplaning and microblading. Dermaplaning is an exfoliation method removing the uppermost layers of skin and hair. Microblading is a tattooing technique where permanent pigment is added to the skin for the esthetic improvement of features such as the eyes, eyebrows and lip lines.